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Toyota Supra MKIV Ultimate Clutch FAQ Part 1
This FAQ has been built with input from drivers all over the world, along with the experience from the founding fathers of the MKIV Supra community (Mark Tozer, Saad Saad, Guilly, Ken Henderson, etc). Couple this with input from the new kids (Woon, Nero, East Coasters, TX crew) and you have a complete guide as possible. It should be noted that there is "not" an end-all clutch for every person, because no clutch meets all the requirements of the ultra-particular MKIV Supra community. Having said that, I will put in place recommendations with "caveats: where need be.
Frankly, to me it doesn't matter which clutch a customer purchases as our profit margin's are all the same, so there is no brand preference here. Any preferences are performance/cost/reliability matrix related. This is a work-in-progress FAQ, so go easy. If you have input feel free to email mark@suprastore.com
I don't have the HPF clutch listed simply because it is just a variation of the AZ clutch with alot of marketing gibberish behind it. If you love that clutch then thank Saad and the original Supra community leaders, because that is where it came from (toss a bone to Rob Smith at RPS too, as he broke new ground for the Supra in single disk clutches).
What are the variables involved in choosing a clutch for the 6 speed Getrag-laden MKIV Supra? These are in no particular preference, but all factor in on everyone's check-list. What ultimately is loved by one person, has shown to be hated by the next, hence the ambiguity when choosing a clutch. Get used to trade-offs, as there are with any of the clutches when you start making power and consider all the factors.
CLUTCH RATTLE?? (watch the video)
1. Cost 2. Street-ability 3. Pedal Pressure 4. Drag Racing Performance 5. Road Racing 6. Pedal Engagement Point 5. Failure Rate of Clutch 6. Rebuild Cost of Clutch 7. HP/Torque Capabilities 8. Stock Car 9. BPU Car 10. Chatter 11. Crank-Walk Potential
Let's get variable's 8&9 out of the way before we break down and define all the variables above. If you have a stock or BPU car, then you have three good options. A. Replace with a factory clutch (quiet and works fine) B. RPS,ACT or similar 3000-3100lb pressure plate, OEM flywheel, organic OEM disc. C. If you hard drag race your BPU car, then the game changes. For <$1000 or so, go with your favorite single disc clutch provider (RPS, ACT, SPEC, whoever), sprung hub 6 puck disc (bronze or softer) and either a factory or lightweight rebuidable flywheel like the RPS segmented (or your personal preference). With any higher pressure typical single disk clutch/flywheel, you will have increased pedal pressure (get used to it) and a more grabby engagement.
The harder metal pucks used on the discs can "fuse" or "weld" to the flywheel on cars that heavily slip the clutch under extreme drag racing conditions. It happens to some and not to others, with the only real known variables for the welding to be the disk puck material (harder the material more common), flywheel material (some say Fidanza is a bit more prone to welding on hard puck clutches), the break-in of the clutch. All of these 6 puck discs should be broke-in with daily driving and very moderate slipping off the line so the pucks sit correctly upon the flywheel. Do this for 250 miles or so, or alot of stop and go and you will generally put yourself in the best position to minimize the weld a clutch potential.
Cost: Complete clutches (pressure plate, flywheel, clutch disc, install kit) range from about $1000 to $5000+, so one must always consider that in the equation. Situationally if you are a hardcore drag racer with 1000+HP and nitrous gobs of torque then your only choices are the RPC Carbon Carbon or Tilton Multi-Disk with the Tilton being the end all. If you can afford the Tilton multi-disc clutch and have someone who can properly install it, then solve the problem and buy this clutch. Both clutches can be readily daily driven (light pedal), have some noise (all multi discs have some "rattle") and are rebuildable.
In the middle of this range are the various multi-disc clutches from OS Giken, HKS, SPEC , RPS, Ogura, Blitz, etc. These are priced from around $1600 to $2500 or so.
All of the multi-plate clutches provide the lighter pedal feel of the stock clutch with the multi disc power handling. For drag racers, in a nutshell the multi plate metal disc based clutches overheat drag racing and often bind up to the point where you can barely engage during slipped clutch drag racing situations. The occassional mild slip and drag racing is no problem.
Engagement of the clutch starts to become an issue and certain clutches are far closer to ON/OFF switch then others. I have driven HKS twin and triple disc clutch cars that have instant engagement, which can be slightly moderated by rpm (forced mild slippage). Good for the road racer, generally just not a fun clutch on the street.
Alot of people like the new twin, triple and quad OS Giken clutches and in particular one of the original Supra giants in this camp is Kenneth Henderson. OS Giken have improved the drivability of these over the years from Gen 1 and Gen 2 multi plates, all of which I drove. Not a drag racers clutch per se' but great feel, longevity and they hold the power.
On the lower end cost spectrum you will really end up with an ACT or RPS pressure plate of around 3200lbs, organic disc (street mainly) and a RPS, Fidanza or similar flywheel. Always remember a basic rule of thumb on the single disc clutch set-ups and that is if you go away from the factory OEM dampened flywheel, then you ALWAYS need to have a sprung hug clutch disc (my opinion anyway). The step up from the organic full face disc is the puck based disc system, which usually ends up being a 6 puck. The material on the pucks contributes greatly to power handling ability, drivability, engagement and ultimately the overall capabilities. The harder the pucks the harsher the engagement (but they also slip better for drag racers, ahhhh trade-offs). My recommendation for a fast street car on a budget (this is the COST section) is a single disc clutch using a bronze or similar softness hybrid material 6 puck design, 3000-3200lb pressure plate (ACT or even RPS) and an RPS segemented flywheel (rebuildable and not as suceptible to the welding of the pucks to the flywheel as Fidanza). If you don't drag race at all, then all the flywheels work fine, so save some coin and get the Fidanza.
Streetability/Pedal Pressure: Multi-discs with the exception of the HKS units are generally the most streetable (have the lowest pedal pressure) and generally are absolutely daily driveable. The big buck clutches from RPS and Tilton are all quite streetable. The single disc clutches sprung with solid lightweight flywheels will chatter, they will have firmer pedal pressure and are generally a bit less streetable (relatively speaking). Some people never get used to the harsher engagement, but for me, I always broke then in properly, adjusted them correctly and used rpm and slight slippage to make stop and go more enjoyable. I have always liked the single disc units for a fast street car (up to solid 800hp). Trade-offs considered, if you have a great budget get a multi-disc, if cash is no factor, Tilton or RPS carbon carbon (new version is quite nice). Rob at RPS has of recent been a bit sketchy from reports on the field with applying a proper warranty, so keep that in mind.
Drag Racing: If you are a hard core drag racer with a "I will spend whatever it takes, mentality", get the Tilton or the RPS Carbon Carbon. Top of the tier is the Tilton ($5K), both are rebuildable.
If you are a moderate drag racer (20 passes a year) and make 750hp or so, then the single disc clutches are a good alternative for those in the $1700 or less budget. Take your choice of the 6 puck clutch that fits your needs and go from there. Live with the possibility of a clutch disc fusing if you slip it hard, greater pedal pressure, etc., for the cost savings in a daily driver.
If you drag race 6-8 passes a year, then you can pretty much choose any clutch your budget allows and this opens the doors for the multi plate moderate priced clutch systems, which all have a basic propensity if slipped hard and often to over heat, which creates difficulty shifting.
Frankly, to me it doesn't matter which clutch a customer purchases as our profit margin's are all the same, so there is no brand preference here. Any preferences are performance/cost/reliability matrix related. This is a work-in-progress FAQ, so go easy. If you have input feel free to email mark@suprastore.com
I don't have the HPF clutch listed simply because it is just a variation of the AZ clutch with alot of marketing gibberish behind it. If you love that clutch then thank Saad and the original Supra community leaders, because that is where it came from (toss a bone to Rob Smith at RPS too, as he broke new ground for the Supra in single disk clutches).
What are the variables involved in choosing a clutch for the 6 speed Getrag-laden MKIV Supra? These are in no particular preference, but all factor in on everyone's check-list. What ultimately is loved by one person, has shown to be hated by the next, hence the ambiguity when choosing a clutch. Get used to trade-offs, as there are with any of the clutches when you start making power and consider all the factors.
CLUTCH RATTLE?? (watch the video)
1. Cost 2. Street-ability 3. Pedal Pressure 4. Drag Racing Performance 5. Road Racing 6. Pedal Engagement Point 5. Failure Rate of Clutch 6. Rebuild Cost of Clutch 7. HP/Torque Capabilities 8. Stock Car 9. BPU Car 10. Chatter 11. Crank-Walk Potential
Let's get variable's 8&9 out of the way before we break down and define all the variables above. If you have a stock or BPU car, then you have three good options. A. Replace with a factory clutch (quiet and works fine) B. RPS,ACT or similar 3000-3100lb pressure plate, OEM flywheel, organic OEM disc. C. If you hard drag race your BPU car, then the game changes. For <$1000 or so, go with your favorite single disc clutch provider (RPS, ACT, SPEC, whoever), sprung hub 6 puck disc (bronze or softer) and either a factory or lightweight rebuidable flywheel like the RPS segmented (or your personal preference). With any higher pressure typical single disk clutch/flywheel, you will have increased pedal pressure (get used to it) and a more grabby engagement.
The harder metal pucks used on the discs can "fuse" or "weld" to the flywheel on cars that heavily slip the clutch under extreme drag racing conditions. It happens to some and not to others, with the only real known variables for the welding to be the disk puck material (harder the material more common), flywheel material (some say Fidanza is a bit more prone to welding on hard puck clutches), the break-in of the clutch. All of these 6 puck discs should be broke-in with daily driving and very moderate slipping off the line so the pucks sit correctly upon the flywheel. Do this for 250 miles or so, or alot of stop and go and you will generally put yourself in the best position to minimize the weld a clutch potential.
Cost: Complete clutches (pressure plate, flywheel, clutch disc, install kit) range from about $1000 to $5000+, so one must always consider that in the equation. Situationally if you are a hardcore drag racer with 1000+HP and nitrous gobs of torque then your only choices are the RPC Carbon Carbon or Tilton Multi-Disk with the Tilton being the end all. If you can afford the Tilton multi-disc clutch and have someone who can properly install it, then solve the problem and buy this clutch. Both clutches can be readily daily driven (light pedal), have some noise (all multi discs have some "rattle") and are rebuildable.
In the middle of this range are the various multi-disc clutches from OS Giken, HKS, SPEC , RPS, Ogura, Blitz, etc. These are priced from around $1600 to $2500 or so.
All of the multi-plate clutches provide the lighter pedal feel of the stock clutch with the multi disc power handling. For drag racers, in a nutshell the multi plate metal disc based clutches overheat drag racing and often bind up to the point where you can barely engage during slipped clutch drag racing situations. The occassional mild slip and drag racing is no problem.
Engagement of the clutch starts to become an issue and certain clutches are far closer to ON/OFF switch then others. I have driven HKS twin and triple disc clutch cars that have instant engagement, which can be slightly moderated by rpm (forced mild slippage). Good for the road racer, generally just not a fun clutch on the street.
Alot of people like the new twin, triple and quad OS Giken clutches and in particular one of the original Supra giants in this camp is Kenneth Henderson. OS Giken have improved the drivability of these over the years from Gen 1 and Gen 2 multi plates, all of which I drove. Not a drag racers clutch per se' but great feel, longevity and they hold the power.
On the lower end cost spectrum you will really end up with an ACT or RPS pressure plate of around 3200lbs, organic disc (street mainly) and a RPS, Fidanza or similar flywheel. Always remember a basic rule of thumb on the single disc clutch set-ups and that is if you go away from the factory OEM dampened flywheel, then you ALWAYS need to have a sprung hug clutch disc (my opinion anyway). The step up from the organic full face disc is the puck based disc system, which usually ends up being a 6 puck. The material on the pucks contributes greatly to power handling ability, drivability, engagement and ultimately the overall capabilities. The harder the pucks the harsher the engagement (but they also slip better for drag racers, ahhhh trade-offs). My recommendation for a fast street car on a budget (this is the COST section) is a single disc clutch using a bronze or similar softness hybrid material 6 puck design, 3000-3200lb pressure plate (ACT or even RPS) and an RPS segemented flywheel (rebuildable and not as suceptible to the welding of the pucks to the flywheel as Fidanza). If you don't drag race at all, then all the flywheels work fine, so save some coin and get the Fidanza.
Streetability/Pedal Pressure: Multi-discs with the exception of the HKS units are generally the most streetable (have the lowest pedal pressure) and generally are absolutely daily driveable. The big buck clutches from RPS and Tilton are all quite streetable. The single disc clutches sprung with solid lightweight flywheels will chatter, they will have firmer pedal pressure and are generally a bit less streetable (relatively speaking). Some people never get used to the harsher engagement, but for me, I always broke then in properly, adjusted them correctly and used rpm and slight slippage to make stop and go more enjoyable. I have always liked the single disc units for a fast street car (up to solid 800hp). Trade-offs considered, if you have a great budget get a multi-disc, if cash is no factor, Tilton or RPS carbon carbon (new version is quite nice). Rob at RPS has of recent been a bit sketchy from reports on the field with applying a proper warranty, so keep that in mind.
Drag Racing: If you are a hard core drag racer with a "I will spend whatever it takes, mentality", get the Tilton or the RPS Carbon Carbon. Top of the tier is the Tilton ($5K), both are rebuildable.
If you are a moderate drag racer (20 passes a year) and make 750hp or so, then the single disc clutches are a good alternative for those in the $1700 or less budget. Take your choice of the 6 puck clutch that fits your needs and go from there. Live with the possibility of a clutch disc fusing if you slip it hard, greater pedal pressure, etc., for the cost savings in a daily driver.
If you drag race 6-8 passes a year, then you can pretty much choose any clutch your budget allows and this opens the doors for the multi plate moderate priced clutch systems, which all have a basic propensity if slipped hard and often to over heat, which creates difficulty shifting.
